Riverside trees along the central London Thames

From Vauxhall Bridge to Tower Bridge, the trees lining both banks of the River Thames are almost all London planes. Softening the riverside with their colour and form through the seasons, they breathe calm and quietude into the cityscape.

AUTUMN

Dappled plane trees in Victoria Tower Gardens

We have the Victorians to thank for the majority of the central London riverside trees. As a major part of the rearrangement of the Embankment, after Sir Joseph Bazalgette’s momentous engineering works comprising the new London sewer and the creation of the District Line Underground tunnels, it was decided to line the river banks wherever possible with plane trees. An article from the Gardener’s Magazine, reprinted in The Times of October 1st, 1870, goes into details of the type of plane tree which was planted. They opted for the Occidental Plane (Platanus hispanica). It was easily available and “the best of trees for great cities”, unlike the “Oriental Plane which is comparatively useless, being, above all things, tender in constitution” and likely to suffer during a severe winter.

Just turning colour, the Victoria Tower Gardens’ plane trees next to the Palace of Westminster

A short article dated January 5th, 1869, in the Illustrated London News, describes how a few weeks after the meeting of the Metropolitan Board of Works, the planting had begun. “Nearly fifty trees are now in the ground. They are placed at intervals of twenty feet from each other, and already nearly half-line the ground between the Westminster and Hungerford Bridges”. The writer adds that it is the intention, “when the embankment is completed to plant trees throughout its entire length.” And so it was that “the Western Plane” became the tree of Victoria Embankment. It was also later to become the tree of the Albert Embankment where it was planned for 184 plane trees to be planted, and along the Chelsea Embankment on its completion in the early 1870s.

Lone plane tree on the way to Wapping

The preparation for planting the trees on the Victoria Embankment “consisted in digging a hole nine feet square and six feet deep, which was filled with good soil brought from Barking” as the quality of the soil on the Embankment “was not good enough to give the trees a fair start”. The article also mentions steps taken to protect the trees from drought. “Every hole was provided with a systematic arrangement of drainpipes, not for the removal of superfluous moisture but to conduct water into the very midst of the roots of the tree.”

Autumn leaves and plane tree seed balls hanging over the river by Lambeth Bridge

The article in the Gardener’s Magazine also notes that “The trees are in the finest state of health imaginable.” And a following remark shows how well the planes have already adapted to their position by the Thames, though possibly a temptation for intrepid climbers: “If the London gamins could be trusted to respect them, it would be possible even now to remove the protecting palisades, for the trees are quite strong enough to withstand the assaults of weather in the breezy position they occupy”. And from then, there was no looking back.

Victoria Tower Gardens’ plane trees planted in the 1890s
Plane tree fruit

The fruit, or seed balls, are made up of individual seeds called achenes with stiff hairs to enable them to coast in the wind as the cluster gradually breaks up during the winter.

WINTER

The fine plane trees, still partly in leaf, lining Victoria Tower Gardens Embankment in early winter

The plane trees in Victoria Tower Gardens were planted in two stages, the northern part of the gardens in the 1890s, and the southern part, cut by the approach to Lambeth Bridge, now known as Victoria Tower Gardens South, were planted in the 1910s. As some of you may know, Victoria Tower Gardens is under threat from a development which could put the trees at risk. You can read about it here.

Victoria Tower Gardens in snow, already covered in footprints
Delicate plane tree twigs with their abundant seed balls

As you draw close to the Thames-side plane trees, after the shedding of their leaves, their seed balls, now clearly visible, hang like baubles against winter skies.

Black-headed gulls flying across, plane tree branches and their seed baubles
Looking through the intricate tracery of plane tree twigs and seed balls on a misty Millbank morning
The Queen’s Walk lined with plane trees planted in the 1950s

Paul Wood, artist and author well-known for his books about London’s trees, writes: “that those trees lining the South Bank from the London Eye to the Oxo Tower are all planes, planted some time after the Festival of Britain in 1951.” They are therefore smaller than their cousins on the North Bank.

Plane tree bark

Plane tree bark flakes off in small patches, exposing new bark beneath, giving trunk and branches a camouflaged look. I have found, while enjoying a walk with children, that the larger flakes are good for drawing or writing messages on…

SPRING

Plane trees still in their winter habit, arch over the Albert Embankment from the grounds of St. Thomas’ Hospital

The lines of plane trees, George Vulliamy’s dolphin lamps, and Timothy Butler’s lion’s head mooring rings, make up one of the great glories of London.

Plane trees on the King’s Reach. Their leaves and flowers will emerge in late spring
Ornamental cherry, Tower Bridge

As spring advances, the occasional ornamental cherry tree on the river banks bursts into life, though hardly challenges the predominance of the London Plane.

Mudlark beneath the unfurling plane tree leaves of Victoria Tower Gardens
Plane trees coming into leaf on the Queen’s Walk
Plane tree seeds and new leaves. The female seeds, flowers to begin with, are red; male seeds are yellowish green and grow on different stems of the same tree

“After pollination by wind, female flowers develop into spiky fruits, comprising a dense cluster of seeds with stiff hairs.” The fruits break up slowly releasing individual seeds, called achenes during the winter months. The Woodland Trust.

SUMMER

Plane trees by H.M. Tower of London
Plane trees on the Jubilee Gardens Embankment
Summer walk in Victoria Tower Gardens South

An analysis of satellite data from 293 European cities in an article by Chen Ly in the New Scientist discovered that “trees have a big cooling effect while other green spaces do not.” In fact they discovered that certain treeless green areas can be warmer than urban areas around them. In some regions “the cooling effect of trees reduces the surface temperature of European cities in the summer by up to 12°C.” We have all felt the cooling effect of trees which “comes largely through shading and transpiration, when water within the tree is released as water vapour through their leaves.” And along the central London River Thames, there is usually a breeze to add to the effect.

Trees on The King’s Reach Embankment, and the RAF Memorial
Welcome shade on benches in Victoria Tower Gardens
Resting in shade on The Queen’s walk benches

You will of course notice a few different species of trees along the river banks. The evergreen Holm Oak, Yucca tree, and the tall Tree of Heaven (being worked on at the moment) close to Lambeth Bridge, are three in Albert Embankment Gardens adding some variety to that stretch of the river.

FAREWELL phoenix palm…

The phoenix palm tree that stood at the north end of Lambeth bridge for many years

Farewell to the Canary Island Date Palm (Phoenix canariensis) a distinctive London landmark since the 1990s, uprooted to make way for a newly designed roundabout. It’s sad such a well-loved landmark that gave a hint of the exotic to Millbank, could not have been included in the new plan: surely safety and aesthetics could have been woven together…

Sources and Further Information
Article by Chen Ly in The New Scientist

For tree-lined walks and famous sights along the central London River Thames see: https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/walking/thames-path

Victoria Tower Gardens: Conservation and Significance Statement, prepared by London Parks & Gardens

The Woodland Trust: The London Plane (Platanus x Hispanica)

Paul Wood: London’s Street Trees, a guide to the Urban Forest.

Lambeth Council Parks

Access to articles in The Times and The Illustrated London News, through Westminster City Council Libraries.

All photographs ©Patricia Stoughton

Boat spotting

Images from a misty morning’s hour by the riverside a few days ago. Surrounding buildings lost or blurred by grey haze, the only colour came from passing boats busily benefitting from the flood tide.

Livett’s ROMEO LIMA in action

Livett’s ROMEO LIMA is a neat, multi-purpose vessel which I’ve seen used for filming on the River Thames, as well serving as a camera boat, drone platform and safety boat. I have also seen her at work surveying the foreshore and river walls.

SWS tug ESSEX pushing barge California

SWS tug ESSEX is one of the distinctive fleet of tugs with yellow painted wheelhouses, operating for the S.Walsh & Sons/ GRS Group. Often to be seen heading along Lambeth Reach, their tugs and barges transport aggregates to construction projects along the Thames and remove excavated or unwanted material from building sites.

SWS tug ESSEX
GPS tug VINCIA

GPS Marine Tug VINCIA is an inland tug, one of the GPS Marine fleet, transporting spoil, aggregates and all kind of construction equipment along the Rivers Thames, Medway and their tributaries, and is often passing along Lambeth Reach.

GPS tug VINCIA side towing
PLA vessel CHELSEA

Port of London Authority vessel CHELSEA is a Harbour Service Launch used for patrols in the PLA’s Upper District but occasionally makes an appearance on Lambeth Reach. She is 10 metres long, has a large open platform and a “spacious island wheelhouse from which the river patrol can provide ready assistance and guidance to rowers, canoeists and other small boat operators.”

Police launch TIM RUPRECHT

Police vessel TIM RUPRECHT is one of boats operated by the MPS (Metropolitan Police Service) Marine Policing Unit, based at Wapping, patrolling the tidal Thames and attending to all kinds of emergencies. Named after “a much-respected friend and colleague” who died after battling against prostate cancer, she was launched on March 10, 2023. It’s rare for me not to see one of their fleet of launches cruising along Lambeth Reach, or speeding by on a shout.

Mooring barge IRON DUKE being manoeuvred into position by tug PROSPER

It was interesting to watch Marine Support Thames (MST Ltd) workboat PROSPER guiding mooring barge IRON DUKE, after a refit, into position on Lambeth Reach.
The company operates a variety of services on the River Thames, its tributaries and the River Medway, providing towage, the hire of crew, workboats, tugs, barges and hopper barges as well as project management and consultation. This is the first time for PROGRESS but I have seen PREFECT, PROTECTOR, PROWLER and PROVOKER, (Now under new ownership and called by her original name STELLA) many times along this stretch of Lambeth Reach.

IRON DUKE and PROSPER

Harnessing the flow of the flood tide PROSPER begins to turn IRON DUKE to face upstream. There followed skilled manoeuvring of this heavy craft, an old crane barge, until it was set in its final position.

IRON DUKE firmly attached to tug PROSPER
Tug PROSPER changing position
Tug PROSPER of MST Workboats
IRON DUKE mooring barge about to be re-attached to PROSPER
IRON DUKE attached to PROSPER now facing upstream
IRON DUKE two days later in her final position next to M.V. VALULLA
Net Zero boat ALB-E

The Net Zero Marine boat ALB-E, funded by the UK Government, was a first for me. Cruising along the River Thames, she was publicising initiatives to operate “renewable energy and shore power systems specifically designed for the marine sector.”

ALMERE 4

ALMERE 4 is a busy, general purpose waste barge often shifting skips and and rubbish with her crane.

NEW Cory tug RESOLUTE

RESOLUTE, One of two new Cory tugs built at the Damen Shipyard in Hardinxweld.

PLA vessel BARNES

The PLA’s harbour patrol vessel BARNES is one of four purpose-built vessels designed to patrol the lower districts of the tidal Thames from Putney Bridge to the North Sea.

Familiar sights along the central London Thames, you are likely to see at least some of these boats as you walk by the river.

Further Information
Discover Livett’s Services by clicking here
See: S.Walsh & Sons/GRS Group
See: GPS Marine Contrators Ltd
Port of London Authority Harbour Service Vessels
Marine Support Thames MST Ltd – mstworkboats. Their new website will be online soon.
See: Cory Waste Management Company
With thanks to Ben of The Liquid Highway